 Gaspard uses memory in an energetic and not a
nostalgic way. He is presently developing his own line of clothing and proposes his
collections in catalogue form in order to preserve a link, very precious to him, between
the clothing and the image.The invitation already had people talking: a limited edition CD
entitled "Yurkievich by Herbert", featuring the sounds of hangers being scraped
across a rack and high heels shuffling about backstage at a fashion show. The collection
itself, presented at the Printemps Haussmann auditorium, renewed certain themes evoked by
Gaspard Yurkievich in his previous collections. Unusual manipulations with sleeves were a
given: there were elbow length gloves with giant panels (keeping the hands on the hips
helps accentuate the effect), kimono-inspired sleeves that tapered at the wrists and were
larger than those in the previous collection, and finally double sleeves which allow a
dress or top to be worn with long sleeves with little wings at the shoulder or else with
short, flared sleeves. New this season are tops with smocking on the sleeves and at the
waist. The skirts shown as part of ensembles with a suit jacket or a top are short with
dancing handkerchief panels in red tweed or jersey; others were long and asymmetrical,
with slits. Pants have a bouffant, zouave-esque form that tapers under the knee and at the
ankle, except for several straight models and a suit shown with capri pants. Bustier
dresses are still highlighted pieces, this time with a new detail: sequins and rhinestones
decorate the "hot spots", namely the thighs, bust and rear. This playful
insolence is also seen in the drawstring asymmetrical tops that reveal the breast, the
transparent chiffon tops and dresses, sometimes with light prints or long, swinging
fringe, or the backless tops that veil the face. The playful, strictly decorative hats of
the last collection have evolved into large bowlers or double hats worn one on top of the
other.
With his second show, Gaspard Yurkievich has already entered the domain of kings (of
fashion), the Carrousel du Louvre. In a cheeky reference to the palace where the biggest
names in fashion present their collections, he baptized his line "Court Carré".
Gaspard Yurkievich develops an intrinsic relationship with the structure of clothing.
Floating ribbons are attached to his skirts and dresses as well as the hems of his short
and long pants and bustier dresses. Tunics and kimono jackets feature large open sleeves
that resemble wings and cross over the chest. While the skirts are generally long, there
are still some short mini dresses. Other models of his little black dresses modestly
arrive at the knee. Gaspard Yurkievich also uses panels and cut-outs, plunging tops that
are open on the sides and short tunic dresses with draped panels in the back. Dresses and
tops in fluid jersey create audacious, asymmetrical, sometimes off the shoulder necklines.
Apart from black and white, used monochromatically or in opposition, greyed pastels and
subdued shades of orange, Gaspard Yurkievich is one of the rare designers using prints:
showers of grey micro-confetti or giant polka-dots on a white background. Decidedly, this
is a designer who is affirming his talent.
|